Magnolia trees are a popular choice for landscaping in Tallahassee due to their beautiful flowers, glossy foliage and ability to tolerate our hot, humid summers in zone 8b. From the classic Southern Magnolia to the compact Teddy Bear, magnolias make a beautiful addition to any landscape. After reading through the varieties, picking just one may prove impossible. If you have enough sunny yard space, consider adding two or more for a truly magnificent magnolia experience!

Magnificent Magnolia Varieties

Southern Magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora):
One of the most classic of southern trees, the native Southern Magnolia is big, bold and green. With glossy, leathery evergreen leaves that are deep green on top and brown on the bottom, it provides shade year-round. A slow grower, the initial size of the tree can be deceiving in a five-gallon pot. Considering most Southern Magnolias reach a height of 60 to 80 feet and spread 30 to 50 feet, planning to leave plenty of room for growth is imperative.

While planning the location, be sure you have a spot in full sun to ensure plenty of beautiful white, fragrant blooms. At 8 to 10 inches in size, Southern Magnolia blooms live up to the name “Magnolia grandiflora.” Their heady fragrance in late spring and summer is magnified by the heat and humidity of Tallahassee.

Hardiest in zones 7-9, Southern Magnolias will tolerate a variety of soils including sand and clay. Once established and flowering, it also is a boon for wildlife. The cone in the middle of each flower matures into a pod of seeds that are eaten by birds and other wildlife. If you have a sunny space large enough for a mature Southern Magnolia, consider it for your next tree planting.
Southern Magnolia: 60-80 feet tall, 30-50 feet wide native, best grown in zones 7-9.

Sweetbay Magnolia (Magnolia virginiana): Another native species, Sweetbay Magnolias are smaller, deciduous or semi-evergreen trees with a dense, rounded canopy. The upper surface of each leaf is a dark green with the underside being a pale green or silver. The leaves are often gathered for their citrus scent, and used in potpourri, oils or tea. Also used for herbal remedies and some culinary dishes, the Sweetbay Magnolia leaves have a wide range of uses.

Slightly cupped and about 3 inches wide, Sweetbay Magnolia blooms may be small, but their fragrance is beautifully enhanced. Creamy white flowers bloom in late spring to early summer, emitting a lemony, citrus scent. Small pods with bright red seeds remain on the trees through winter.

The Sweetbay Magnolia is used in gardens, landscapes and naturalized areas. It is hardy in zones 5-9, and tolerant of wet or poorly drained soils. If you have a wetland or rain garden, this is the perfect magnolia. As a moderate grower, give it room to grow in a sunny spot where you can enjoy its fragrant blooms and leaves.

Sweetbay Magnolia: 10-35 feet tall and 10-35 feet wide native, best grown in zones 5-9, near a pond or rain garden.

Little Gem Magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora ‘Little Gem’): A Little Gem Magnolia is the “mini-me” of the Southern Magnolia, growing 15-30 feet tall and 8-15 feet wide. The flowers are the same beautiful white with the classic magnolia fragrance, averaging 4 -6 inches in width with possible repeat blooming in the fall and winter.

If you have a sunny spot in your yard that is too small for a Southern Magnolia but you still yearn for its magnificence, then Little Gem is your landscape solution. As a dwarf cultivar, you get all the best of the classic magnolia at a portion of the size. If you have a bit more room, consider the Teddy Bear Magnolia, also a dwarf cultivar with more spread. Though not as prolific a bloomer, the Teddy Bear has deeper green leaves on its average 15-20 feet tall and 10-15 feet wide body.

Little Gem: 15-30 feet tall, 8-15 feet wide, dwarf cultivar of the Southern Magnolia in zones 6-10.
Teddy Bear: 15-20 feet tall, 10-15 feet wide, dwarf cultivar of the Southern Magnolia in zones 7-9.

Star Magnolia (Magnolia stellata):  Similar in shape to the Teddy Bear Magnolia, Star Magnolia averages 15-20 feet wide and 15 feet wide. However, it differs greatly in hardiness, flower shape and available flower colors. Originally from Asia, the Star Magnolia is deciduous, dropping its leaves in fall with fragrant narrow petaled flowers of white, purple, pink, yellow or red appearing in early spring. After blooming, it produces bright pink seed pods, later bearing fruits full of brilliant orange seeds – a beautiful complement to its autumn-colored foliage.

Hardy in zones 4-9, the Star Magnolia tolerates both cold winters and hot, humid summers. Most often grown as multi-stemmed shrubs, blooms emerge on old wood.  Like most magnolias, the Star Magnolia prefers minimal pruning but, if you feel strongly about reducing stems, do your cutting after blooming so next year’s buds have a chance to develop.

Star Magnolia: 15-20 feet tall, 15 feet wide, indigenous to Japan and best grown in zones 4-9.

Jane Magnolia (Magnolia x ‘Jane’):

The Jane Magnolia is a small hybrid of the native Southern Magnolia that produces purple-red flowers in early spring. The foliage appears after the flowers bloom, beginning in mid-spring. The tulip-shaped flowers are between 4 to 8 inches when open, white on the inside with the outer purple fading to pink as the long-lasting blooms remain for up to 4 weeks.

Jane Magnolias are hardy from zones 4 through 8, losing their leaves in the fall with blooms appearing mid-spring. As a 10-15-foot-tall tree with a rounded canopy, their narrower width of 8-12 feet wide makes them suitable for smaller gardens or as a focal point in landscapes. Jane Magnolias are also versatile as they can be grown as a tree or shrub.

Jane Magnolia: 10-15 feet tall, 8-12 feet wide, native hybrid grown in zones 4-8.

Planting Pointers for Magnolia Trees

Magnolia trees prefer full sun to partial shade with at least six hours of full sun as a minimum. When looking for the perfect location, consider both the height and the width of the magnolia tree you are planting. It can be difficult to imagine a 3-foot tree growing to 50 feet tall and 30 feet wide, but leaving the room open around your new tree will allow it to reach its full growth potential.

Your magnolia will also prefer to be planted in cooler weather in slightly acidic soil. Amending the soil with compost when digging the hole will help lower the pH. The size of the hole should be slightly shallower than the top of the root ball and twice as wide. Planting the tree too deeply can lead to suffocation of the surface roots. Cut away any intruding roots from nearby shrubs.

As you are backfilling the hole with loosened soil, gently firm it down to eliminate air pockets. Always thoroughly water after planting – it helps settle the soil and give fresh water to the recently exposed roots of the tree. During the establishment phase, water infrequently and deeply to encourage deep root growth.

Caring for Your Magnolia

Mulching

Mulching your magnolias follows many of the best practices found in our recent blog “Why Mulching Matters for Young Trees.” Organic mulches such as wood chips, bark or pine straw should be spread in an even layer of 2-3” under the tree canopy and 6” from the tree trunk. Never pile mulch up against a tree as that encourages pests and moisture to gather around the base of the tree.

For a mature Southern Magnolia mulching is not as important for retaining moisture in the soil. The broad spread of the evergreen tree canopy shades the ground, discouraging evaporation. However, for the smaller and deciduous varieties of magnolias, mulching helps reduce stress in dry and hot conditions by retaining moisture and keeping any surface roots cooler.

Pruning

Magnolias are more prone to pruning stress than some of the other popular landscape trees in our Tallahassee area. Generally, magnolias grow in the shape they are meant to be, only requiring pruning of dead or damaged branches. If any shaping is needed, keep it as minimal as possible and plan to perform the pruning during slow growth months in the winter. If there is more extensive damage done from bad weather or a fellow tree falling, consider calling a certified arborist to determine the best plan for maximizing shape and minimizing stress on your magnolia.

Common pests

Generally considered pest-resistant once established, healthy magnolias seldom require any specialized care. Examining leaves and the overall health of your tree on a regular basis can head off many pests before they become a problem. If you do notice pests or foliage issues beyond what you are comfortable treating, consult an arborist for a tailored treatment plan.

Scale Insects

If you see bees or wasps visiting your magnolia you may have an infestation of Magnolia or Tulip Tree scale. These insects survive by feeding on the water and sugar within the tree. Once they latch on with their elongated mouth into the tissues of the tree, they stay in the same place and begin excreting a sticky substance called honeydew, a food source for bees and wasps. Honeydew also drips down on leaves and causes issues with sooty mold, preventing photosynthesis on leaves and potentially starving the tree leaf by leaf.

If caught early on small trees, the scales can be removed with a small brush. On taller and more mature trees a systemic insecticide brings longer-lasting results. If left untreated and an infestation reaches a threatening level, horticultural oil can be used to smother the scales.

Thrips

With small, elongated bodies and wings, thrips can spread quickly. They feed on the sap of a magnolia through the leaves. Females will lay their eggs on the ground near the tree with larvae appearing in spring. Keeping the ground around your magnolia free of decaying plant materials is one of your best defenses against thrips.

Because they are flyers, you can use sticky strips to trap them when they reach the adult stage. If you are interested in ladybugs, ordering some in to feed on the larvae will also put a stop to the sap-sucking thrips. If the swarm has already grown to a larger problem than the previously mentioned solutions can handle, spraying the leaves with a solution of horticultural oil is advisable. Please follow directions carefully to ensure proper concentration and application.

Mealy Bugs:

Another sap happy pest, mealy bugs are often encountered on houseplants and ornamentals. The small, white and slightly elongated bodies can be found on magnolia leaves that are slightly deformed or yellow. Though they may look soft their backs have a strong shell that acts as protection. Mealy bugs move and reproduce quickly, making the use of horticultural oil a viable solution to preventing eggs from hatching. For a general defense, insecticidal soap or pesticides can be used.

Magnolia trees are some of the most magnificent landscape specimens in any Big Bend landscape. The wide varieties of sizes, bloom color and foliage mean there is a magnolia for any situation. Whether you plant the grand Southern Magnolia or the pretty pink flowered Jane, there is nothing more satisfying than knowing your magnolia will be providing you with a show of strength and beauty for years to come.

At Miller’s Tree Service, we often help our clients with the care of their magnolias. Our certified arborists can answer your questions about the placement of new trees to maximize sun and shade.  Contact us online here or call 850.894.TREE (8733) to schedule an arborist assessment – we are invested in keeping all of our Tallahassee trees looking their best!

Mulch is a popular way to spruce up flower beds and define the area between lawn and garden. It’s also used as a buffer, keeping moisture in soil longer instead of the sun baking the uncovered dirt dry. Mulching young trees certainly tidies up the area and helps hydration, but there are other benefits as well. Read on for more information on choosing the perfect mulch and best practices in application.

Why Mulch Your Young Trees

Mulching a young tree is beneficial because it helps retain moisture in the soil, regulate soil temperature, suppress weed growth and provides a source of nutrients as it decomposes and minimizes erosion. These benefits help the young tree establish its root system more effectively, grow more quickly and become more resilient to environmental stressors.

Moisture retention: Mulch helps retain moisture in the soil by reducing water loss through evaporation. This is especially important for young trees that have shallow roots and need to establish themselves in the soil.

Temperature regulation: Mulch acts as an insulator, regulating soil temperature and protecting the roots from extreme temperatures. Imagine the difference between cool, shaded soil and the Florida sun beating down on bare ground in July.

Weed suppression: Mulch helps suppress weed growth by minimizing the amount of light that reaches the soil. Weeds compete with young trees for water and nutrients by leaching them from the top surface of the soil before they can reach roots. While mulch helps, there are usually a few weeds that still make it through. Spot treat those with your weed deterrent of choice.

Nutrient cycling: As mulch made up of natural materials decomposes, it releases nutrients into the soil, benefiting young trees. The process is carried out by microorganisms such as bacteria and fungi, which feed on organic matter in the mulch. As they break down the mulch, they release nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium into the soil.

Erosion control: When rain falls on bare soil, it can create a hard crust on the surface, making it difficult for water to penetrate. This can lead to runoff and erosion. Mulch helps by minimizing impact and distributing moisture more evenly throughout the soil.

Which Mulch is Your Perfect Match

There are advantages and disadvantages of organic versus inorganic mulches. While each may find a use, the added advantage of nutrients being added to the soil during decomposition pushes organic to the front of desirable mulches for young trees.

Organic Mulches

SHREDDED BARK OR WOOD CHIPS:
PRO -Provides long-lasting, attractive coverage and helps improve soil health by slowly decomposing over time and releasing nutrients into the soil. Also heavy enough to help prevent soil crusting and erosion.
CON – May attract pests such as termites or carpenter ants if not aged properly. Can also be flammable and pose a fire hazard in dry conditions if piled close to the home.

LEAVES OR GRASS CLIPPINGS:
PRO – An inexpensive and readily available mulch that provides good moisture retention and weed suppression.
CON – Can mat down and form a barrier that prevents water from reaching the soil. Can also harbor diseases or pests if not composted properly.

COMPOST OR MANURE:
PRO – Can provide a high-nutrient, slow-release source of fertilizer for plants, while also improving soil structure and water-holding capacity.
CON – May have a strong odor, attract pests, or contain pathogens if not aged properly. Can also be high in salts and potentially harm plants if used in excess. Be sure compost and manure are properly aged so the heat of decomposition does not burn plants.

PINE NEEDLES:
PRO: An acidic mulch that can help acidify soil, making it ideal for acid-loving plants such as azaleas, blueberries and rhododendrons.
CON – May acidify soil to the point where some plants cannot grow. Can also be difficult to rake or remove once in place.

COCOA BEAN SHELLS:
PRO – A decorative and fragrant mulch that can suppress weeds and retain moisture in the soil. Can also deter slugs and other pests.
CON – Can contain theobromine, a chemical toxic to dogs and other pets. May also be expensive and not readily available in all areas.

SAWDUST OR WOOD SHAVINGS:
PRO: An inexpensive and effective mulch for suppressing weeds and retaining moisture. Can also improve soil structure over time as it decomposes.
CON: Can deplete nitrogen from the soil as they decompose, leading to nutrient deficiencies in plants. Can also be flammable and pose a fire hazard in dry conditions.

Inorganic Mulches

GRAVEL OR ROCKS:
PRO – A long-lasting and attractive option that can be used to create a decorative and low-maintenance landscape. Ideal for arid climates where water conservation is important.
CON – Can be difficult to remove or change once in place. May also heat up and contribute to increased temperatures around plants, leading to potential plant stress or damage. Rocks must be kept away from trunks as they can abrade surface areas of bark.

RUBBER OR RECYCLED TIRES:
PRO – Provides long-lasting and durable coverage. Comes in a variety of colors and sizes.
CON – May release harmful chemicals over time and not decompose or contribute to soil health like organic mulches. Can also be visually unappealing in some landscapes. Beware of metal remaining in some rubber mulch recycled from tires.

SAND OR PEBBLES:
PRO – Ideal for use in areas with high foot traffic or where drainage is a concern. Can also provide a decorative element to the landscape.
CON – Can be difficult to remove or change once in place. May also not decompose and contribute to soil health like organic mulches.

LANDSCAPE FABRIC OR GEOTEXTILE MEMBRANE:
PRO -Provides effective weed suppression and moisture retention, while also allowing water and nutrients to pass through to the soil. Can be used in combination with other mulches for added benefits.
CON – Can be expensive and not visually appealing. May also prevent some beneficial insects or organisms from accessing the soil.

Mulch, Compost and Fertilizer

Can compost be used for mulch? Do you need fertilizer if you use mulch – or is it compost you’re thinking makes good mulch? The terms can get confusing, so here is a summary for reference before you plan the next steps of caring for your young trees.

Mulch is a layer of material applied to the surface of the soil around plants or trees, typically for the purpose of conserving moisture, suppressing weed growth, regulating soil temperature and improving soil health. Mulch can be made from a variety of materials, including organic materials such as leaves, wood chips and straw, as well as inorganic materials such as plastic or rubber. Mulching is a common practice in landscaping and gardening and can provide numerous benefits to plants and soil when applied correctly.

Organic mulch supplies some nutrients to the soil as it decomposes, but young trees likely need additional nutrients to encourage root growth and overall health.

Compost is a type of organic matter that has been decomposed and transformed into a nutrient-rich soil amendment. It is created by combining organic materials such as leaves, grass clippings, food scraps (not meat) and other plant material in a pile or bin and allowing them to break down over time through the process of aerobic decomposition. A note of caution – when compost is going through the active stage of decomposition it is considered “hot” and can damage plants.

Compost can also be purchased commercially to be used as a soil additive or organic fertilizer. Quantities from single bags to truckloads are easily available. For those looking to cover a large area, many landscape companies will offer a ready-made solution of part soil, part compost so it’s ready to use as soon as the truck departs.

Compost is often used as a natural fertilizer in gardening and farming and is considered an environmentally friendly alternative to chemical fertilizers.

Fertilizers are used to supplement the nutrients in soil that may be deficient or depleted, as well as to enhance the growth and productivity of plants. They contain a combination of macronutrients, including nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), as well as micronutrients such as calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. For a more detailed information on ingredients and best practices, you can read our blog “The Scoop on Fertilizers.”

The type of fertilizer that should be used for young trees depends on a variety of factors, including the species of tree, the soil conditions and the age and size of the tree. Look for products that are high in phosphorus, which supports root development, and low in nitrogen, which can promote excessive leaf growth at the expense of root development. A balanced fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 may be appropriate for young trees but be sure to read the label and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for application rates and timing.

Best Practices – the Do’s and Don’ts of Mulching

• Do use organic mulch, preferably shredded bark or wood chips, for mulching your young tree.
• Do mulch to within three inches of the trunk.
• Do spread the mulch out to be 2 to 4 inches deep.
• Do take the mulch out to the dripline – the end of the branches – of the tree.
• Do renew mulch yearly.
• Do not pile up against the trunk of the tree, creating an undesirable moisture trap and pest haven against the bark, often referred to as a tree volcano.
• Do not exceed four inches of mulch creating an unnecessary expense.

Note: Larger, more mature trees do not require mulching, but it still looks nice

Overall, mulching young trees using organic mulch and best practices gives you an increased likelihood of success. Proper mulching, watering, nutrients and pruning all add up to watching your new tree grow to its full potential. Imagine the 4-foot twig with a few leaves growing to shade the house on warm summer days!

At Miller’s Tree Service, we love watching the progress of young trees growing in the landscapes we service each year. At a certain point, they are added to our trimming list, assuring proper branching and air movement for tree health. If you need help with your new or old trees, or even have one that needs to be moved, we can help. Call to schedule a free consultation with one of our arborists – they love talking about trees!  Contact us online here or call 850.894.TREE (8733) – we are invested in helping our neighbors keep their trees and landscape looking their best.

Searching for the perfect fertilizer for trees and shrubs to thrive can be confusing when faced with different numbers on containers like 10-15-10 or 10-5-4. Maybe it’s safer to go with the bag made for specific trees such as palms, but then you wonder if it would harm the crape myrtle in the middle of the planting bed. The good news is once you have the basics down, the numbers make sense and you can concentrate on the optimal fertilizing practices that keep your Tallahassee trees and shrubs thriving.

What the Fertilizer Numbers Mean

The numbers on fertilizer represent the fertilizer’s N-P-K ratio, which stands for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. These are the three primary nutrients that plants need to grow, and the numbers represent the percentage of each nutrient in the fertilizer.

For example, a bag of fertilizer labeled 10-10-10 contains 10% nitrogen (N), 10% phosphorus (P), and 10% potassium (K) by weight. The remaining 70% of the fertilizer may consist of other nutrients or additives.

Different trees and shrubs have different nutrient requirements, so it’s important to choose a fertilizer with the appropriate N-P-K ratio. Generally, producing fruit or flowers requires a higher phosphorus content, while foliage-focused growth benefits from a higher nitrogen content. Potassium is important for overall health, helping trees and shrubs resist disease and stress.

Fertilizers can be organic or inorganic, and may also contain other ingredients, such as beneficial microorganisms, growth stimulants or soil conditioners.

Other Ingredients in Fertilizers for Trees and Shrubs

Specific nutrient needs can vary depending on factors such as the species, age and growing conditions. In addition to nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, other key nutrients to consider for tree and shrub health include:

• Calcium (Ca) – Calcium helps maintain cell wall integrity and promotes overall plant health. It also plays a role in regulating soil pH and nutrient availability.
• Magnesium (Mg) – Magnesium is essential for photosynthesis, enzyme activation and other metabolic processes. It is often deficient in soils with high potassium levels.
• Iron (Fe), Zinc (Zn), and other micronutrients – Trees also require various micronutrients in smaller quantities for proper growth and development. Iron is important for chlorophyll production, while zinc plays a role in enzyme activation and hormone synthesis.

There are additional nutrients and additives in most commercially produced fertilizers that help in soil health and absorption. Be sure to ask your arborist when you have a question about specific needs for the trees in your landscape.

Concentrated vs Slow-Release vs Water Soluble

Not all fertilizers for trees and shrubs are meant to be applied in the same way. Concentrated, slow-release and water-soluble fertilizers differ in their formulation, nutrient content and release rate. Here are some of the key differences:

Concentrated fertilizers are generally high in nutrient content and are intended to be applied in smaller quantities than other types of fertilizers. They typically come in liquid or powder form and are applied to the soil or foliage. Concentrated fertilizers provide a quick source of nutrients, but need to be reapplied frequently to maintain nutrient levels.

Slow-release fertilizers are designed to provide a steady, long-term supply of nutrients to plants. They typically come in granular or pellet form and are applied to the soil. Slow-release fertilizers are coated with a material that breaks down over time, releasing nutrients gradually. This helps to avoid over-fertilization and can result in more even growth and better plant health.

Water-soluble fertilizers are mixed with water and applied to the soil or foliage. They are quickly absorbed by plants and provide a rapid source of nutrients. Water-soluble fertilizers are often used for foliar feeding, which involves applying fertilizer directly to the leaves. They can also be used as a supplement to other fertilizers.

In general, concentrated fertilizers are best for providing a quick boost, while slow-release fertilizers are ideal for providing a steady, long-term supply of nutrients. Water-soluble fertilizers are useful for quick, targeted applications, such as foliar feeding. The choice of fertilizer will depend on the specific needs of the trees and shrubs being grown.

Organic Fertilizer Alternatives

Organic fertilizers are derived from natural sources, such as plants, animals and minerals. They provide a variety of nutrients and can help improve soil health. Here are some common organic fertilizer solutions:

Compost is made from decomposed organic matter, such as food scraps, yard waste and manure. It is a rich source of nutrients, including nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, as well as beneficial microorganisms that help improve soil health. Compost can be added to soil as an amendment or used as a top dressing around plants.

Animal manure, such as cow, horse or chicken manure is also a rich source of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. It can be added to soil as a soil amendment or used as a top dressing around plants.

NOTE: Manure should be aged or composted before use to avoid burning plants with high levels of nitrogen. Fresh manure can be acidic and may lower the pH of soil, making it difficult for plants to absorb nutrients.

Fish emulsion is a sustainable and environmentally friendly fertilizer option that utilizes waste materials from the fish processing industry. It is made from ground-up fish and is a rich source of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. It can be used as a liquid fertilizer for plants or as a foliar spray.

NOTE:  While it is possible to make this a DIY project, it entails grinding, fermenting and straining of fish scraps and byproducts. It is probably best to purchase at a retailer – commercially sold emulsion has gone through a pasteurization process that makes it more stable. The smell is considered unpleasant by most but can be minimized by application being done on a calm day with minimal wind and away from open windows or intake vents.

In addition to the fertilizers and nutrients mentioned, trees and shrubs require adequate water, sunlight and carbon dioxide to grow and thrive. Removing dead branches and proper pruning will keep your trees and shrubs strong, with proper air movement reducing wind damage and diseases.

Best Practices for the Environment

Fertilizers for trees and shrubs are most effective when in the correct combination of nutrients, in the right quantity and applied at the best time of year. Adhering to application instructions also protects your plants from chemical burn and minimizes impact on water and soil balances.

Here is a list of fertilizer best practices for easy reference: 

Test your soil: Before applying any fertilizer, it is important to know the nutrient needs of your soil. Understanding which nutrients are lacking and which are abundant will help you choose the right fertilizer and avoid over-fertilization.

Follow the instructions: Always follow the instructions on the fertilizer label. Over-fertilization can lead to nutrient imbalances, pollution of waterways and damage to plants.

Apply at the right time: Apply the fertilizer for your trees and shrubs when they are actively growing and in need of nutrients. Avoid applying fertilizer during times of drought or high heat, as this can damage plants and increase the risk of nutrient runoff.

Apply at the right rate: Apply fertilizer at the recommended rate for your soil and tree or shrub. Using too much fertilizer can lead to nutrient leaching and runoff, while using too little can lead to stunted growth and poor plant health.

Apply evenly: Spread fertilizer evenly over the soil or apply it uniformly to foliage. Uneven application can lead to over-fertilization in some areas and under-fertilization in others.

Store and dispose of fertilizers properly: Keep fertilizers in a dry, cool place – away from children and pets. Dispose of unused fertilizer properly, following local regulations.

At Miller’s Tree Service, we help our clients with the care of their trees, shrubs and landscaping. Our certified arborists can answer your questions about nutrients while assessing the trimming or removal needs of your trees. Call 850.894.TREE (8733) to schedule a free arborist consultation – we are invested in keeping Tallahassee trees and shrubs looking their best!

How do I trim my crape myrtles? Is that a water oak or white oak in the front yard? Which palm trees will take the cold temps we get in Tallahassee? We have been answering these questions and more in our blogs on MillersTreeSrv.com. In case you missed the blog about this being the best time of year to plant camellias, it’s included in our TOP 5 of 2022! (See our thank you discount at the end of this blog!)

Proper Pruning of Crape Myrtles 

Crape myrtle trees are a popular landscape staple in the Big Bend area. Vibrant blooms combined with interesting bark patterns make this deciduous tree gorgeous year-round. Most varieties lend themselves to having the classic vase-like shape with multiple trunks and strong branches arching outwards. January thru March are the perfect time for pruning crape myrtles in the Big Bend area. 

Following the seven simple steps outlined in this article will go a long way toward keeping your crape myrtle healthy and thriving. You may enjoy the newly pruned view so much this season that adding a few more varieties to your landscape becomes a goal. We have included a few of our favorite crape myrtles for inspiration! Click here for more crape myrtle information! 

Azaleas in Tallahassee – Perfect Spring Color Under Your Trees 

Azaleas in bloom – our local Tallahassee sign that spring is here. The bursts of red, white and pink are often a splash of color under or around trees, taking advantage of much-needed shade. While new varieties offer new colors and bloom seasons, the best practices on planting, pruning and general care remain the same. Let’s explore how to have the healthiest and happiest (more blooms) azaleas in your Tallahassee neighborhood! 

Azaleas Thrive in Companion Planting with Trees 

While some of the new varieties of azalea have more sun tolerance, many favorites are what our parents and their parents planted – shade-loving shrubs. A classic southern location for azaleas is under the shade of larger trees, gathered in groups or planted as a surround for the tree trunks. Whether the tradition of pairing shade trees and azaleas sprung from practicality or whimsy, the results provide a perfect balance for your spring bloomers. For more about Azaleas, click here! 

A Tallahassee Guide to the Best Palm Trees for North Florida  

Palm trees come in all shapes and sizes, but not all are meant for our Tallahassee weather. Luckily, some of the most beautiful palm trees for North Florida offer a wide variety of choices in frond shape, height and silhouette. Whether you chose the shorter Pindo or taller Sabal palm, be aware that palms are different from trees with their own best practices for care. 

Pick up any plant label and you see a hardiness zone number. The U.S. Department of Agriculture divides the United States into zones ranging from 1-13 with Zone 1 being the coldest and Zone 13 the warmest. If a palm has a temperature range of Miami’s Zone 11, planting it in Tallahassee’s Zone 8 means it will likely not survive our colder winter temperatures. For the blog on Zone 8 hardy palms and downloadable palm tree guide, click here. 

How to Identify Florida Oak Trees Around Tallahassee  

There are around 600 oak varieties in the world, 90 of which are native to the United States. Considering oak trees have a wide variety of leaf shapes – sometimes on the same tree – it’s no wonder people get confused between laurel and live oaks. We have put together an article with some of the popular oaks in our area so you can identify the trees by their leaves and acorns. The accompanying notes will also help you identify potential issues and decide on new varieties for your landscape.  

For more information about local oaks, including drawings to help you identify which ones are in your yard or favorite park, read the blog here! 

Camellia Care in Tallahassee 

When landscapes feel barren during our winter months in north Florida, any bursts of color you see are likely coming from Camellias. For centuries, these evergreen shrubs have been the choice of royalty and common gardeners alike. Luckily, camellia care is easy – the harder part is choosing among the thousands of varieties. 

The Sasanqua and Japonica species are most common in the Big Bend, with thousands of hybrids producing a wide array of flower forms and sizes. Both species are evergreen, able to provide privacy as hedges or grown alone to provide cool weather color. The Japonica species tends to be larger in size while the Sasanqua species tends to have smaller but more numerous flowers with more notable fragrance. There is even a camelia named “Tallahassee Girl!” For more information about selection, planting and care of camellias in our area, visit the blog here. 

We hope you enjoyed our top five blogs of 2022. Join us on Facebook an Instagram for the latest news, fun facts and on-the-job photos. Comment or message us if you have a subject you would like to see addressed in one of our upcoming blogs. We love to help our neighbors through sharing knowledge and ideas. 

At Miller’s Tree Service, we care about your landscape – trees and camellias, azaleas and crape myrtles. When you have one of our arborists out for a free tree removal consultation, ask about replacement ideas and help sprucing up under your live oak. Our crews are proud about the care we show in cleaning up after a job, leaving your yard as clean, or cleaner, than when we started. Tallahassee is our home too, so keeping it beautiful – and safe – is our goal. 

 Call 850.894.8733 to plan your next tree planting, trimming or removal. We will always go out on a limb for you! 

When landscapes feel barren during our winter months in north Florida, any bursts of color you see are likely coming from Camellias. For centuries, these evergreen shrubs have been the choice of royalty and common gardeners alike. Luckily, camellia care is easy – the harder part is choosing among the thousands of varieties.

The Sasanqua and Japonica species are most common in the Big Bend, with thousands of hybrids producing a wide array of flower forms and sizes. Both species are evergreen, able to provide privacy as hedges or grown alone to provide cool weather color. The Japonica species tends to be larger in size while the Sasanqua species tends to have smaller but more numerous flowers with more notable fragrance.

Camellia Sasanqua

• Mature size: 6 – 10 feet high and wide
• Sun: Can tolerate part to full sun, preferring a sunny spot without harsh afternoon sun
• Soil: Well drained with neutral to slight acidity
• Bloom time: Late summer through the holidays. October – December
• Flowers: Smaller than Japonica, but more numerous and fragrant

Camellia Japonica

• Mature size: 7-12 feet high, 5-10 feet wide, upright growth
• Sun: Blooms best with six hours sun per day. Avoid harsh afternoon sun to avoid sunburn
• Soil: Can range from acidic to neutral or slightly acidic
• Bloom time: Late winter, potentially staying through spring. December – March
• Flowers: Larger than Sasanquas leaves and flowers

A local camelia: Tallahassee Girl – light pink with yellow anthers

TIP: If you enjoy growing your own herbs for tea, consider including Camellia sinensis in your plantings.

Commonly called the Tea Camellia, this hardy evergreen is heat and drought tolerant, growing well in full sun. Young leaves and leaf buds are used for green tea, older leaves for black tea and the buds for white tea. Keeping it pruned to under 5 feet produces the most options for tea, also making it a candidate for growing in a large pot.

Planting Your Camellias

November through February are the preferred planting times in north Florida. Late spring or summer is a possibility if camellia care is a top priority. Camellia roots prefer the cooler months without hot sun for development, so keep this in mind when planning your purchases.

When selecting where to plant your camellias, avoid full shade. Partial to more sun is needed to develop a strong plant and healthy blooms. Camellia sasanqua will tolerate more sun while japonica prefers partial shade, but neither will tolerate the hot, harsher afternoon sun we have here in the Big Bend.

DO NOT plant too deep! The root ball of a camellia plant must be 1-2- inches above the soil line. This allows for some sinking and gives the roots a chance to breathe. For optimum camellia care, it’s best to maintain a 2–3-inch layer of mulch in the root zone to conserve moisture. Be sure to mulch close, but not over the root ball to allow air exchange.

After the first camellia is in the ground, you may be tempted to plant others closer because the young plants look smaller once planted. Keep in mind that their average size once mature is between 5-10 feet in width. Planting them too close together now means crowding and lack of air flow in a few years, leading to pests and disease.

Pruning Your Camellias

Camellia care includes proper pruning to remove damaged or dead branches and allow air flow through the plant. The good news is most camellias maintain a consistent shape, minimizing pruning. When a wayward branch heads in the opposite direction, remember pruning is best done in late winter or early spring, after the blooming season.

One type of pruning to avoid is shearing – taking off the top of the plants in a row to create a hedge of same height camellias. Shearing destroys the shape of camellias, causing them to try recreating their natural form. This results in dense outer layers that minimize air flow and light reaching the inner branches, causing loss of leaves and risk of disease.

Propagating Your Camellias

You may love your camellias so much, you decide you want to try propagation. Seeds do not give consistent results, so you will find most camellias are propagated from cuttings or layering. These methods ensure the new plants will have the characteristics of the parent plant.

Layering is a good introduction to propagation, potentially yielding a new plant in a matter of months. It requires selecting a stem with new growth, about 18-24 inches long, then removing part of the bark. For air layering, sphagnum moss is used to create a rooting environment when wrapped around the exposed bark. You can use a similar method, simply called layering, that encourages rooting of the exposed bark once it is bent to the ground and covered with soil.

Whether you chose cutting, grafting or a form of layering, there are a variety of resources available that will walk you through the process step-by-step. When searching, start with the general term of “propagating camellias” getting more specific with “air layering camellias” or other choices as you progress.

Where to Find Out More About Camellias

We are fortunate in Tallahassee to have a variety of nurseries with knowledgeable staff ready to help you with your selection and camellia care questions. You may find like-minded people in clubs – including the Tallahassee Camelia Society that meets monthly from October to May. There is also the Tallahassee Garden Club, a gathering of gardening enthusiasts since 1926, which hosts monthly plant exchanges for their 500-plus members. There is no shortage of resources both local and online for you to continue learning about camelias, including ways to expand your collection.

At Miller’s Tree Service, we care about your landscape – trees and camellias, azaleas and crape myrtles. When you have one of our arborists out for a free tree removal consultation, ask about replacement ideas and help sprucing up under your live oak. Our crews are proud about the care we show in cleaning up after a job, leaving your yard as clean, or cleaner, than when we started. Tallahassee is our home too, so keeping it beautiful – and safe – is our goal.

Call 850.894.8733 to plan your next tree planting, trimming or removal. We will always go out on a limb for you!

Having the right tool for pruning can make all the difference in securing a better outcome for your trees. This is particularly true when it comes to cutting back suckers at the base of your tree and removing dead limbs. Shears and saws are generally the tools of choice when pruning, but not all work the same. The choice of which tool to use comes down to location on the tree, size of the growth needing cut and any physical considerations of the person pruning.

Pruning Shears

Bypass Shears

For smaller suckers and the ends of limbs, pruning shears are the right tool for pruning. Consisting of two blades with handles usually fitting in a single hand, there are three type of shears. Sometimes referred to as cutting scissors, bypass shears have blades that cross one another as the branch is being cut in between blades. These are best used on the smallest suckers or limb parts. One thing to be aware of with bypass pruners is both blades must be sharp on the cutting edge for a good cut to occur.

Anvil ShearsOn the other hand, anvil shears need a single sharp blade that comes down onto a flat surface, or anvil. The single blade is sharpened on both sides, leading to slightly more tolerance when dullness occurs. Anvil shears make clean cuts and can potentially handle larger diameter cuttings, depending on wood thickness and blade condition.

Ratchet Shears

If you have concerns about muscle strength or joint issues, a ratchet shears may be a great solution. As the name suggests, the blades begin a cut, latching into place with a ratchet-like mechanism. When you let up on the tension, the blades remain in place, waiting for your next squeeze. The mechanics of a ratchet pruner leverages your strength, essentially stabilizing and multiplying your efforts. It’s especially nice that the blades remain in place without constant pressure.

Loping shears

Loping shears are in-between the single hand shears and pruning saws. With longer handles, they are the right tool for pruning smaller twigs above arm length without a ladder. For those who have difficulty kneeling down, loping shears are great for clipping suckers at ground level. They are heavier than pruning shears so arms and shoulders can become fatigued quickly, so pace yourself. If you have branches that are higher than loping shears can reach or thicker than a ratchet pruner can handle, it’s time to switch to saws as a solution.

Pruning and Pole Saws

There is a wide variety of saws available for pruning, varying in blade length and handle shape. Most pruning saws cut 1 ½- to 5-inch diameter branches with anything above that better suited to powered versions such as chain saws. One thing pruning and pole saws have in common is a metal blade with teeth designed for cutting to be done in a back and forth, push/pull motion.

Pruning Saw

Pruning saws with straight blades and curved handles are easier to hold and are good choices for new wood and lighter duty tasks. Curved blades are generally stronger, suited for heavier duty tasks but can be awkward in tight spaces. If portability is important, consider stocking your pruning kit with a folding saw. Coming in a wide variety of sizes, the saw blade folds inward toward the handle for easier and safer storage.

Pole Saw (closeup)

Pole SawFor higher branches and limbs, consider a pole saw. Often a single blade mounted on a pole, these saws allow you to reach much higher into a tree without climbing a ladder. Some have the option for shear-like cutters at the end of the pole; the choice depends on availability and personal preference. Poles also vary from fixed length to telescoping, 6 feet to more than 15 feet long. If you have a limb that exceeds the height of your pole, it’s time to bring out a ladder and your personal protective gear.

Pruning Safety

Before you begin ANY pruning, it’s time to break out the safety gear. Just like having the right tool for pruning gives you a better outcome, the right gear gives you a safer pruning experience. Work gloves will protect your hands from hidden hazards like thorn vines and safety glasses protect your eyes from falling debris. A short list to have on hand includes:

• Safety glasses
• Work gloves
• A sturdy, long sleeved shirt
• Thick pants
• Closed toe shoes (preferably work boots with hard toes and thick soles)
• A hard hat/helmet

Include any helpers you have, even if they are not actively pruning. It is not unheard of for someone removing debris to step on a sharp sucker or be snagged by a leafy limb. Sturdy shoes and safety goggles can make the difference between a slight stumble or medical emergency.

NOTE: If the tree limbs or branches are too large for pruners, using the right tool still applies, this time with equipment such as chain saws. Wearing protective gear and knowing proper operation and care of equipment is critical for safe operation. Follow manufacturer’s instructions and wear appropriate safety gear, even if dealing with only one branch.

If your pruning is overhead, the same focus on safety applies, plus some. Before climbing any ladders, review the Ladder Safety page available at the American Ladder Institute website: www.americanladderinstitute.org/page/BasicLadderSafety. Even if you think it’s a five-minute job, have someone there to keep the ladder steady and be on the lookout for other hazards. In the Big Bend area, a few things to remember are wasps and bees like trees too – so remind your helper to look up, down and around!

Properly pruned trees are healthier and less likely to succumb to diseases and storm damage. But improper trimming may cause damage, inviting rot or infestations. If you are not sure where to begin or prefer to keep your feet firmly on the ground, we completely understand. Instead, you can schedule one of our arborists to come out for a free consultation. We love talking about trees and landscaping any time of the year! Call Miller’s Tree Service at 850.894.8733 for consultations, estimates or emergencies.

When a severe weather or a hurricane causes damage in Tallahassee, our top priority will be homes hit by trees. In a case of widespread damage, downed trees in yards will be scheduled after those on homes.

In times of emergency, Miller’s Tree Service has a large team to help service our area as best as possible. We will have at least 12 crews and at least 6 cranes at our disposal to help with emergency clean up.

Tree on house after severe weather.

Here are a few things to remember no matter which tree company you use:

1. Call us first, then your insurance company, then a roofer or contractor of choice. Have your insurance information ready at the time of the call.
2. Do not pay any vendor up front for any work and always ask for a copy of their insurance.
3. We know it is a difficult time, but please be patient! Thousands of calls will be coming in and they will be prioritized based on location, severity and order of the call.
4. We will only be handling trees on houses and structures until those are cleared up.
5. If you have trees in your yard, they will have to wait until trees on houses are finished. You can still call us to get in the queue for yard clean up.
6. Please understand, your yard may get damaged. With it being very wet and a large volume of work to do, your yard and driveway may get damaged more than if it was a regular tree job. We will make every effort to minimize this damage, but in emergency situations, we can’t spend extra time trying to protect the yard.
7. Once the tree is removed from your house, it may be weeks before we get back to do a final cleanup of your yard. Again, be patient, as there is a large volume of damage across town.
8. Your debris will be stacked by the road possibly for weeks. We will either give you a price to haul it later, or the city or FEMA will haul it.
9. We will not be tarping or repairing roofs. Have a roofer or contractor on your short list of vendors.

Thank you for trusting us through the years with all of your tree care needs. We love our community and pride ourselves on our quality of work and the relationships we build with each customer. Call us for the emergency of a downed tree at 850.894.TREE (8733). Please be safe and God Bless!

Southern Live Oak

There are around 600 oak varieties in the world, 90 of which are native to the United States. Considering oak trees have a wide variety of leaf shapes – sometimes on the same tree – it’s no wonder people get confused between laurel and live oaks. We have put together an article with some of the popular oaks in our area so you can identify the trees by their leaves and acorns. The accompanying notes will also help you identify potential issues and decide on new varieties for your landscape.

Southern Live Oak

For all of the southern live oak’s spreading glory, it has one of the plainer leaves and smaller acorns on our list. It is also one of the more evergreen, with new leaves emerging as old ones are being dropped. When thinking about how to identify Florida oak trees, a mature southern live oak is the easiest with its widespread growth habit and unpredictable limb structure. It is also one of the most desirable trees for the strength of its limbs and long life.

Mature size: 50’ tall x 150’ wide   Average life span: 500+ years
Annual growth: 24-36”   Considered a stable and desirable tree.

Water Oak

A fast-growing, short-lived tree that can reach up to 70 feet, water oaks are used for short-term shade solutions. If you have one of these in your yard you already know that it is considered a weak tree, dropping branches on a regular basis. Any trimming of a water oak near a house needs to be done by a professional – improper cuts may lead to rot within the tree. Water oaks can be big acorn producers, a redeeming quality for those looking to attract wildlife.

Mature size: 70’ tall x 60’ wide   Average life span: 30-50 years
Annual growth: 24”   A good tree for wildlife but unstable and short-lived in landscapes.

Shumard Oak

Often found in parking lots and commercial landscaping, Shumard oaks are tolerant of a wide range of soils and conditions. These trees can grow to over 80 feet, sporting classic oak-shaped leaves up to 8 inches long and 6 inches wide. Considered a moderately fast-growing deciduous tree, it provides shade in the summer and allows sun in the winter.

Mature size: 80’ tall x 70’ wide   Average life span: 100-200 years
Annual growth: 24”   A large tree well suited for a variety of locations.

Pin Oak

How to identify Florida oak trees when the leaves look similar? That is a question that comes up occasionally between the Shumard and pin oak leaves. Think of the pin oak leaves as coming to a “point” (or two) at the end and Shumard’s as being “showy.” You are also more likely to find the pin oak trees gathered near low-lying areas, tolerating wet feet during dormant months. The trees themselves can vary in height, considered medium to large trees depending on location and soil conditions.

Mature size: 50’ – 120’ tall  Average life span: 120 years
Annual growth: 24”   Popular as an ornamental tree and low spots in landscaping.

Laurel Oak

Another fast-growing, short-lived tree that can reach up to 100 feet, laurel oaks are considered evergreen, offering year-round shade. New leaves emerge while previous leaves are just beginning to drop, keeping the tree looking green year round. It is considered an ornamental tree that likes sandy soil. The leaves are small – 2”-4” in length and are smooth, requiring raking when old leaves drop to avoid slipping and falls.

Mature size: 80’ tall x 60’ wide   Average life span: 50-70 years
Annual growth: 24-36”   A fast maturing tree best planted as an ornamental.

Southern Red Oak

Southern red oak has leaves that vary from rounded edges to points, turning red and falling in colder temperatures. This tree prefers dry, sandy uplands with a range from New Jersey to Florida, extending west to Oklahoma and Texas. Acorns produced from trees in the red oak family tend to be more bitter than white oak varieties due to more tannins. Southern red oaks can grow quite large with lumber used for construction and furniture.

Mature size: 60’ – 90’ tall  Average life span: 150 years
Annual growth: 12”-36”  Deciduous tree with medium life span for dry, sandy soils.

Swamp Chestnut Oak

Also known as a cow oak, the acorns are sweet enough to eat raw without boiling. They are favorites of cows and other wildlife, making the swamp chestnut oak popular for those involved with habitat restoration. The leaves are not a classic oak shape – rather they are more oval with the widest part past the middle and an underside of thick fuzz.

Mature size: 50’ tall x 40’ wide   Average life span: 100+ years
Annual growth: 12”-24”   An excellent tree for wildlife with large, tasty acorns.

Willow Oak

Named for its leaf resembling that of a willow tree, most willow oaks can also be found near streambeds and rivers. Unlike its namesake, the branches are horizontal, and the overall tree shape is pyramidal. Willow oaks are easily transplanted because of their shallow root system. The oak’s acorns are also an important food source for wildlife.

Mature size: 40’ tall x 60’ wide   Average life span: 100 years
Annual growth: 13” – 24”   A more delicate branching system with good forage for wildlife.


At Miller’s Tree Service we understand people becoming attached to a tree that has been on their family property through generations or one recently planted with hopes for the future. If you have concerns about one of your special trees, call us sooner rather than later so we can help keep your trees healthy, or remove a problem tree so others can thrive. We will literally go out on a limb for you! Call 850.894.8733.

Living in Tallahassee, we have chilly winter days and long, humid summers. With those winter freeze warnings comes the USDA designation of Zone 8 for plants, meaning palm trees that thrive in Miami’s Zone 10 will not survive our cold snaps. We have put together a handy guide showing five palm trees that thrive in and around the Tallahassee area. There are additional varieties available, especially if you are looking for indoor plant options. But these five are solid choices for enhancing your existing landscaping or serve as inspiration for a new focal point. Read the accompanying blog here.

Click here for your printable PDF of the Best Palm Trees for North Florida: 

Palm trees come in all shapes and sizes, but not all are meant for our Tallahassee weather. Luckily, some of the most beautiful palm trees for North Florida offer a wide variety of choices in frond shape, height and silhouette. Whether you chose the shorter Pindo or taller Sabal palm, be aware that palms are different from trees with their own best practices for care.

What is in a Zone and Why it Matters

Pick up any plant label and you see a hardiness zone number. The U.S. Department of Agriculture divides the United States into zones ranging from 1-13 with Zone 1 being the coldest and Zone 13 the warmest. If a palm has a temperature range of Miami’s Zone 11, planting it in Tallahassee’s Zone 8 means it will likely not survive our colder winter temperatures. The following palms are hardy for Tallahassee, ready to enhance your existing landscape or inspire a new design.

European Fan Palm

European Fan Palm

If you are looking for a smaller option that will be as wide as it is tall, the European fan palm is a fitting solution. Considered a slow-growing, clumping palm, the fronds are held out on a shorter stem, spreading outward in thin fingers. The color may range from a light green to silver, making it an excellent focal point or filler solution. The average size is 10 feet tall by 8 feet wide with an average cold tolerance is Zone 8.

The European fan palm can be grown with multiple plants close to each other, forming a mound of fronds. It can also have the fronts trimmed from the ground up, creating the look of a small palm tree. Because of the smaller size (at least compared to other palms) most landscape designers would suggest planting two or three trimmed trees close together to create a focal point.

Pindo Palm

Pindo Palm

On the list of best palm trees for North Florida, the Pindo palm is one of the most popular. With an average height of 15 feet or more, the Pindo has large, graceful fronds that arch out and away from the tree. Colors for Pindo fronds range from green to a beautiful blue-grey. Rated for Zone 8, this beautifully fronded palm is perfect for Tallahassee landscapes

You may hear “Jelly Palm” when people are discussing potential landscape additions. The Pindo is well known for the fruit it produces that can be made into jelly by industrious canners. Some Pindo owners see the yearly fruit as a bonus – and others prefer to remove the fruit before it ripens. Though the fruit is not considered harmful to dogs, it may give your family pet an upset stomach, so it’s better to avoid indulging their Pindo fruit cravings.

Windmill Palm

Windmill Palm

One of the most cold-hardy on our list of palm trees for North Florida, the windmill palm is rated for Zone 7. Able to tolerate temperatures down to the single digits, the fronds are also strong enough to handle snow accumulation. Though snow is not something we worry about in Tallahassee, it is nice to know your windmill palm will be just fine through the frost warnings.

Windmill palms have a trunk covered in a loose mat of coarse fiber, topped by distinctive fronds that grow upward and outward. The fronds are wide, made up of narrow seams with a little give at the ends. As a slow grower with a top height of around 20 feet, you may see the dark green to yellow-green frond tops when the windmill is small, later on enjoying the silvery tones on the underside as the tree matures.

Sabal Palm

Sabal Palm

Of course we are going to have the state tree of Florida on our list! Also known as the cabbage palm, the sabal is one of the few palms that have a high tolerance for cold (Zone 7), salt and drought once established. As a slow grower, it can take years for it to reach an average height of 40 feet, with trees in the wild growing taller.

Sabal palms are native to Florida and have long been a staple in urban and suburban settings. Usually grown upright, the trunk can also be trained to bend, running above the ground before turning upward. The fronds are a darker green, forming a dense canopy at the top of the tree. The “boot” or base part of the frond may be left behind when a frond dies and falls from the tree. Some sable palms will have boots halfway down the trunk, while others will be boot free.

Mexican Fan Palm

Mexican Fan Palm

Known for being fast-growing and drought-tolerant, the Mexican fan palm is the tallest palm on our list of best palm trees for North Florida. With average heights spanning between 70-100 feet, these trees are often seen planted along highways and adjacent to tall buildings. For homeowners, the Mexican fan palm, also known as a Washingtonia, looks great in open lawns and is rated for our area as Zone 8.

The Mexican fan palm trunk starts out a reddish brown, eventually turning gray as it matures. Medium green fronds are wide, with lower fronds growing outward from the trunk and newer, higher fronds growing upward. Mexican fan palms are considered to be long living with robust canopies from 10 to 100 feet.

Do’s and Don’ts of Palm Care

One of the most important things to remember about palm trees is that they have no bark to protect their trunks like oaks or pines. You want to make every effort to avoid damage during moving, pruning, fertilizing or mowing.

• Do make sure your palm has the correct amount of sunlight. Light requirements vary with too little sun leading to weak and spindly growth, and too much sun scalding the leaves and threatening the palm.
• Do fertilize your palms during the warm months, staying away from the trunk where the roots may be burned. Be sure to use the correct mix of nutrients in the correct amounts.
• Don’t cause root damage. Palm roots tend to grow laterally, so be careful with any digging near your palms. Palm roots are fragile so remember that when you are planting, handle with care and never expose the roots directly to fertilizer.
• Don’t The best way to avoid overwatering your new palm is to ensure good drainage. You can add sand to the soil in up to a 50% ratio. New palms should be watered every day for the first week. That’s why you do not want water hanging around in heavy clay, rotting new roots.
• Do prune away dead fronds if your palm is close to a dwelling. Some pests like to make their homes in the “hula skirt” made by a collection of dead fronds laying against the trunk. On the other hand, butterflies and birds also benefit from the same habitat, so it is up to the individual homeowner how to handle the hula.

At Miller’s Tree Service, we understand the varying needs of palms growing in North Florida. It can tricky to prune palms without damaging the trunks – you will never see our crews climbing a palm tree with spikes unless we are there for removal. For trimming fronds on taller palms we use our bucket trucks, lifting our professional trim crew to the proper location along the palm trunk.

If you have questions about the different varieties of palms that will work in your yard, give us a call and one of our arborists will come out for a free consultation. We love talking about the health of your existing trees and any plans for new ones, too. Call us for the emergency of a downed tree or schedule pruning and fertilization anytime at 850.894.TREE (8733).

Download your handy palm tree guide here. Take it with you when shopping for a palm, make notes on the back!